Hong Kong Typhoons by Brian D Wilson (Administrative Officer, Hong Kong 1948-83)

 

Typhoon Hope, 1979

Typhoon is an Anglicised version of the Cantonese "dy foong", meaning "big wind". For a century or more, it was the only term for this violent, damaging, and frightening natural phenomenon affecting Hong Kong and other countries round the South China Sea. The usual typhoon season ran from May to September. The original choice of Hong Kong as offering a sheltered deepwater port meant that weather reports were essential for shipping, particularly in the territory's development as an entrepot for goods carried by sea to and from China. Weather reports became even more important with the advent of aircraft and for the safety of land-dwellers.

You could read the signs of an approaching typhoon a day or two beforehand: leaden sky, grey-blue clouds, sultry oppressive atmosphere, drop in air pressure. When the storm approached within a certain distance of Hong Kong, the Royal Observatory In Kowloon would hoist the No. 1 signal and broadcast hourly weather reports through Radio Hong Kong, describing the storm's central wind speed, distance from Hong Kong, speed with which it was travelling, its present course, and the time it would take to reach Hong Kong if it continued on Its present course. Big ships in the harbour would cut short their stay and depart. Other ships on their way to Hong Kong would stay clear. Aircraft would do the same. Fishing vessels, lighters, yachts, and small harbour craft would hurry to the several typhoon shelters and pack tight; the tighter, the safer.

Prudent residents would bring indoors all moveable objects from outside (verandah furniture and flowerpots), to avoid their being blown through windows. Windows would be firmly closed and the premises battened down. Shopkeepers would cease business and pull down the metal roller blinds over their glass shop fronts (metal roller blinds were a common feature, pulled down every day at the end of the trading day to avoid burglary).

No. 2-6 signals from the Royal Observatory denoted the direction of the storm and its closer approach. By the time No. 7 was hoisted, the wind would be blowing hard and the rain crashing down. At that stage, Hong Kong would be closed down and all outdoor or business activity had ceased. Hong Kong would be out of action until the typhoon had departed and its aftermath cleared up. The government in London and some overseas commercial organisations could not comprehend such a situation, convinced that ordinary business must continue as usual. They could not understand the danger outside from flying objects and the virtual Impossibility of standing upright and moving about.

For the ordinary householder, the ordeal began as the wind increased to a terrifying shriek. When it reached over 100 mph it could be really frightening.

Typhoon Rose, 1971

Coupled with the wind was the rain blowing horizontally. No matter how tightly windows were closed, the wind would work latches loose and force the rain through the sides in a never ending stream of water. If there were doubts whether the glass on the windward side could withstand the wind or a flying object, it was wise to evacuate the room for a safer place. Great care had to be taken, even indoors. Wind pressure tore the door free, trapping your finger as the door slammed shut. Wind pressure on one side meant equal suck on the other.

Although a typhoon could be moving in a certain direction, the accompanying winds revolved in a circle round it. This meant that, if there were a direct hit on Hong Kong, wind would be blowing from one quarter until the centre reached the territory. There would then be a brief lull (the eye of the typhoon) before the wind rose again, blowing from the opposite quarter.

Typhoon, 1937

Not every typhoon making for Hong Kong reached the territory with a direct hit. sometimes it could change direction, brushing past with a middling blow; destructive but not catastrophic. But it was always necessary to prepare for the worst, and to remember that more than one typhoon could occur during the season. But, even if the typhoon was only a brush-past, it could still be destructive if combined with a tidal surge. The wind damage on land was usually made worse by the heavy rain which could cause land slips (particularly on the steep slopes of Hong Kong), dislodged boulders, house collapse, and flooding. As soon as the storm had passed, emergency services would be busy saving life, restoring electricity and water, and clearing blocked roads and drains. Trees exposed to the wind would be stripped of leaves which then formed a slippery coating on roads.

An interesting feature was that, where a deciduous flowering tree had lost its leaves, a few weeks later it might flower again (twice in the same year), presumably because its seasonal rhythm mistook the loss of leaves for the end of winter and therefore time to start flowering and putting on new leaves.

The modern development of radar, weather balloons, and satellites has made it easier to locate and plot the course, speed, and intensity of typhoons. For the 30 or so years after the Pacific war ended. Hong Kong relied for much of its weather information on the American weather bureau at the former Clark Field military base in the Philippines. Typhoons there were always given girls' names. According to cynics, this reflected the fickle female nature of typhoons in frequently changing course. These days, affirmative action seems to have resulted in the introduction of boys' names or even local ethnic names. Indeed, the work "typhoon" is too often replaced by "cyclone", losing much of the charm of a traditional local word.

The Marching Rule Rebellion: In the Solomon Islands from 1944 to 1955-56 by by Chris Cochran (Administrative Officer, Solomon Islands 1967-1982)

 

Maasina Rule

In 1944, at the end of the war in the Pacific, Solomon islanders rebelled against the return of the British to rule them, preferring the Americans with their anti-colonial opinions and masses of cargo given to the islanders, with promises of more to come. A potent mix.

Starting in Malaita and fanning out to neighbouring islands, Britain lost most administrative control except for judicial services, which the rebels wanted us to continue to provide. However, one small artificial island in the Lau Lagoon, of just 300 people in the rebel-heartland island of Malaita of 50,000 withstood pressure to conform to the rebellion. Sulufou, the tiny loyalist island, flew a large Union Jack daily from a high flagpole. As the rebels canoed past Sulufou they exchanged verbal insults such as "Inpoo" (meaning "big man"), implying they were nothing; a tiny number in the mass of rebels. There was no cooperation at all, and general surliness, except on this one small artificial island of Sulufou. The people there made it very clear they did not want to return to the old ways of magic, kastems and inter-tribal wars. They wanted peace and development. Their Leader, Wate, displayed great shrewdness and vision to see there was no going back to the old ways. A small man of great stature and wisdom. A giant amongst dwarves.

Among the mass of rebels my predecessor Tom Russell once heard laughter and noise behind a barricade. He sneaked a look and found children playing cricket - so all was not entirely lost!

There were lots of big meetings between rebels and a small group of administrators, in which demands for freedom were made, and the UK told to leave. The meetings were tense and threatening, with thousands of rebels armed with guns, clubs and spears shouting threats and demanding the departure of the white man, facing a few courageous administrators.

On one famous occasion they deflated the rebels by saying 'We have heard your demands. We will consider them carefully'. Then, turning to his two DOs, the DC said 'Is it time for morning tea?' and standing up he walked through the dense armed crowd in total silence, and proceeded to the DCs house. Upon reaching it safely, he sat down on the verandah and was served tea and biscuits by a terrified and shaking house-boy. The huge crowd was at first stunned into total silence, then on reflection roared with laughter and dispersed. On reaching home, they were questioned by their wives - who wore the trousers - and were severely criticised for being so weak and lacking in courage.

Duke of Edinburgh at Malaita

The administrators patrolled vigorously despite being ignored, but they were under great stress and strain. Very few administrators completed the full two-year tour on Malaita, containing and pushing back Marching Rule. Most left exhausted and were no further forward than when they had started. Malaitans of all shades are particularly difficult and tough to govern. You had to be very tough to survive mentally and physically. Among the very few who were, were Tom Russell, later Governor of the Caymans; Colin Allan, later Governor of the Seychelles and Solomon Islands; Val Anderson, later Resident Commissioner New Hebrides; and Gordon Skipper, later head of NZ VSO. These Colonial Service administrators were a brave and tough bunch indeed to endure Marching Rule and survive it. One who did not was Resident Commissioner William Marchant, who was invalided out after waking up at night, suffering nightmares and shouting he was being murdered by the rebels. The rebellions went on for five more years until 1955, with arrests, ambushes, skirmishes and some killings, until both sides grew bored and tired of it. The rebels realised co-operation was more profitable than rebellion, and gave up in 1955 with remnants continuing into 1956; living on its legends to this day.

As for the one loyalist village. It profited immensely, as Wate wanted, living off Its loyalty too, reminding anyone of it who would listen. They were immensely brave to remain loyal in a sea of rebellion. Their old flag of defiance remains to this day; moth-eaten, torn and ragged; a gentle reminder of their loyalty to the Crown. They are repaid with a Royal Visit every time royalty is in town, especially the Duke of Edinburgh, who must know it well from several personal visits. They are very upset that he is retiring and not returning.

But the Marching Rule legend lives on to this day, with both sides very proud of what they did and endured from 1944 to 1955/56.

An African Experience: In Retrospect by Malcolm F Anderson (Survey Department, Northern Nigeria 1957-74)

 

Training Surveyors, 1965

As a young man the romance of far horizons and the prospect of distant unknown mountains kindled in me a primal urge to travel. Before leaving for Northern Nigeria I had seldom been more than a hundred miles from home but had studied geography and map making, had acquired a curiosity about foreign places from forebears who had served abroad, and saw the opportunity of a worthwhile and exciting alternative to a predictable and unadventurous life under grey and drizzling skies in Europe. My education, technical training and ambition had perhaps stirred a remnant of the pioneering spirit which had begun to open up the colonies more than half a century before but my aspiration as I set out in 1957 was neither political nor philanthropic. Convinced of the value of surveying and mapping to a developing country I sought professional experience, the achievement of personal goals and appropriate financial reward.

The prospect of a tough and itinerant lifestyle called for physical fitness and a level of self-sufficiency to cope with emergencies and crises but as I set out I didn't know what demands the life might make upon me. I had little regard for the possible loneliness, repeated hardships, illness in remote places far from medical aid, how I would adjust to local people and their values, the effects of disagreements amongst fellow expatriates and the homesickness and privations of an unaccustomed way of life. I had never experienced the discomforts of tropical weather and mosquitoes and had no inkling of the monotony and uncontrollable irritability and discomfort of long enervating days and lonely nights. But the hazards acted as an incentive and tended to be blindly ignored, as indeed they would be by the young of today; the minutiae I was to experience first hand. The wise words of Mary Kingsley in the late 1800s were ignored, and I think I was right to do so:

'When you have made up your mind to go to West Africa the best thing you can do is to get it unmade and go to Scotland instead'

But another great pioneer, Mary Gaunt, said:

'A land of immense possibilities
Heat fever and mosquitoes
Gorgeous nights and divine mornings
A white man's grave -
But live wisely and discreetly
And it is no more likely to be there than anywhere else'

I was not sure I wished to stay in Africa very long and thought two tours of 18 months as Nigeria approached its independence might be enough for me. The fact that I served for 20 years says a lot about me, but probably says more about Nigeria and Nigerians. I knew it could never be my permanent home but there were times when it seemed that it was, when things were going well, when work was very satisfying and when I was so busy there was little time to think about the future. If I survived the obvious risks some day the break would have to be made.

Advanced Survey Course

Independence in 1960 brought in an inexperienced democracy controlled by a political elite followed by military coups, a civil war and territorial fragmentation into States. Despite periodic turmoil, uncertainty and chaos my work, as it changed from practical to administrative, continued for some years to be satisfying and rewarding. There was reassurance that the surveyor's expertise and experience were acknowledged and valued. With only a few exceptions there was goodwill all round. Those exceptions were mostly found amongst those who were new to the reins of authority, lacked technological understanding, had received little or no training in administration, and did not possess a natural bent to lead. Military violence and the arming of large numbers of people had engendered a dangerous and unlawful malaise; extortion, robbery and violence threatened to become everyday events. In spite of the well-intentioned changes to the country's administrative structure regional, district, religious and ethnic differences and aspirations remained threats to the stability of the nation.

Legally enforceable property rights have provided the basis for economic development in all the major successful countries of the world. Resources, size and a burgeoning population gave Nigeria the potential to be a prosperous leader in Africa but there was a need to awaken the dormant capital that lay locked up in its land resources. If rights in land are not properly documented, assets cannot be turned into useable capital, cannot be used as an investment and cannot be traded other than locally amongst those who trust each other or who have traditionally exercised control over that land. There is a risk of a weakened or black economy based on untrustworthy businesses conducted without proper documentation. The key to a system of secure and demonstrable rights in land which cannot be held in freehold, with little risk of counter claims, and which can be used as collateral, is an efficient cadastral system backed by fast and efficient land surveying and an open and dependable land register. Obtaining rights of occupancy swiftly, and with permission to develop, has to be within the reach of ordinary people, free of any burden of bribery and corruption.

Colonial policies had ensured that local customs and values had never disappeared and most land was held unsurveyed under customary title. This was not however acceptable as security for development loans and trading and resulted in a burgeoning demand for the alternative, certified statutory leasehold titles supported by surveyed plans of demarcated land, an internationally accepted cadastral system enshrined in law. With a severe shortage of capable manpower it became impossible to keep pace with demand without the introduction of innovative aerial photographic techniques not understood by local influential land officers and to which certain entrenched interests were opposed. Blatant corrupt practices, abhorrent to my professional principles, found ways to resist improvements and to retain and undermine the security and integrity of the system I was employed to operate and it was time to leave. My signature was valued and I was urged to stay on but I thought it better to depart while my hosts were reluctant to lose me.

An Office With a View

Vindication of my decision came from an Assistant Surveyor-General of one of the northern States, whom I had first appointed as a trainee Survey Assistant in 1971. In a personal letter written to me in 1988, over a decade after my departure, he said:

"We have not been able to build upon the foundation you laid partly due to poor resources and deliberate administrative bottlenecks, and partly due to interference. We just work to earn a living, not for job satisfaction"

In many ways I was sad to leave. I was enriched by my time in Northern Nigeria, enjoyed the challenges and responsibilities which came my way, the variety, the travelling, the gratification of standing alone on remote summits, the light, the colour, the pleasure of relaxation after a hard day's physical work in the blistering heat, the friendships I made, many of them surviving to this day, the camaraderie of those with whom I shared the experience. But most of all I enjoyed helping to train my local successors and meeting and working with so many of the diverse, fascinating, welcoming and very likeable Nigerian people. West Africa had a way of taking root in the imagination, a strange combination of love and hatred, regardless of its hazards and there always resided a muted but persistent desire to return. In a strange way I feel sorry for those who never fell under this spell. I cannot forget Africa, and although I know it could so easily forget me I feel, as many others have found when they revisited their former domains, that I would be welcomed back as a helpful friend and not as the arrogant colonial oppressor so hackneyed by prejudiced imperial critics. It continues to surprise me that in spite of the difficulties and unpleasantness of the later years when water, power and fuel supplies broke down and when medical and financial services deteriorated, that I survived so long and that optimism and a strong attachment to Africa prevailed. It can be a mistake to revisit old familiar places after the lapse of time, the disappointments can be too great, as indeed I fear they would be if I returned to Borno, but in spite of this I still harbour a desire and a curiosity to see once again the land that remains part of me.